By Maryanna Gabriel
Lombok. Oi. Some countries one can be semi-detached from – others command a
more active involvement. Lombok demanded a rise from me in the sense that part of it was like an endurance test and just when I was entrenched in that as the modus operandi, I was set down in a tropical island paradise. Contrast makes for heightened appreciation I suppose. As I write to you, I hear the sound of waves from turquoise waters and I watch brightly coloured, covered, barges disembark. It is peaceful and quiet and for the most part tranquil. Hemingway would have liked it here. It is perfect as it is but I sense this little island won’t be left alone, it
will be built up like its neighbouring sister island. Gede (pronounced good day), our Balinese guide, says that this island was the final destination at the end of “Eat, Pray, Love”. It is also known as the “Honeymoon Island”. It is good to rest and come out of the defensiveness engendered by the week prior.Where Bali is primarily Hindu, Lombok is primarily Muslim. Mosques replace the Hindu temples. Lombok is about two thirds the size of Bali with considerably less population. The humidity is wilting and when I looked at an atlas I was surprised to see how close to the equator we are. It isn’t a warm cosy place for the most part. We must be infidels I should think. Call to prayer commences over the loudspeakers at 4:40 a.m. sometimes accompanied by the howling of dogs and in one case a cacacaphony of music and rival loudspeakers that were impossible to sleep through. One night I had a monkey hurl its body at the window and then jump onto the roof and it
sounded like it was trying to rip it off. Accommodation in one case was without running water, dirty, and had most of us clenching our bellies as cramps ripped through our digestive systems as the unsanitary conditions were more than our western bodies could endure. Means of transport is incredibly overworked ponies pulling carts, laden mopeds (without helmets) and Mitsubushi lorries. People carry all kinds of amazing things on their head including baskets of stones. I just watched a man walk by with a pillow on his head as I was writing. We toured rice fields and walked through people’s yards in the process as well as watched women doing amazingly skilled weaving (Ikeat) on hand looms, sitting on the bare ground. Gede is able to speak the language here which is different from Balinese. Gede tells me it is Muslim because of traders that came from Saudi Arabia in the 18th century. He says that Lombok is what Bali used to look like 40 years ago. There is very little garbage here for one whereas Bali is an eyesore in this way. Lombok has an active trading relationship with China. Potatoes we ate are from there and rice is exported to China
leaving the needs of the people here shy of their yearly quota which is not a great situation. The little island we are on now is thankfully recycling the omnipresent plastic water bottles and it is the cleanest place I have seen.
My fellow travellers have been amazing, a pleasure to get to know, and I am deeply moved by them. They are positive, upbeat, uncomplaining and fun. We have a strong Canadian contingent along with Australians, Europeans and Americans. They have restored a sense of hope for me and a renewed commitment to my life after some horrendously painful events in my life. Yesterday we all went snorkelling; the underwater gardens in this ocean are startlingly beautiful. We saw sea turtles and an abundance of multi-coloured iridescent fish. We came back and played volleyball on the beach
and dined on fresh fish together beside the ocean. There are palapa-type, grass roofed huts that are a joy to dine in and we are happy to enjoy a more expanded menu in addition to a diet of rice and noodles. Tonight we are having a fire on the beach as a farewell dinner party. Gede will leave to continue the tour in Java and I ready myself with mixed feelings to fly out of this country with much gratitude for being able to participate this far. May the new year bring us all continued blessings and wishing you much fulfillment and happiness:)
