Magic Cottage Creations

Magic Cottage Creations
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July 22, 2016

Circumnavigating Salt Spring Island: White Caps

By Maryanna Gabriel 


Ganges Harbour


My heart warmed, the kayak restocked with provision, and with the exciting addition of a cook stove, I paddle in style out of the harbour. Darkness falls and I make my way contentedly in the moonlight. The harbour is dotted with islands and I knew where I was going. The water was as still as glass. I am headed to a beautiful beach on Third Sister Island, a very special place. I sleep deeply in spite of someone hacking and vomiting on a nearby sailboat. The next day dawned, and I explore with pleasure. Later, the day brought teenage boys, drinking beer and making a ruckus. I decided peace was a priority and putting my book aside I made the decision to leave. Immediately I knew I had made a mistake. As I crossed the water to shore, I found myself in whitecaps which threatened to swamp me. Cursing the lack of a hatch cover, fear welled up inside of me as waves broke against the kayak. This was clearly dangerous. 


Prayer flew from my lips. Shakily, I made it to the other side and rested in the shadow of a dark looking house that seemed to have eyes although there was no visible sign of life. There was no other spot readily apparent for the tide was high. While waterfront is public at beach level, it seemed I had no choice.  I watched the surf warily and the wind only picked up. Reluctantly I made camp. Dinner was delicious. I settled back, my stomach at least satisfied, and stared at the strange upright piles of stones and "found" objects that littered the beach. They seemed to be fetishes. It was downright creepy. I could not shake the feeling I was being watched. The moon rose and I drifted off to an uneasy sleep.

I awoke with a start. Something was very wrong. Wind or no wind, I wanted out of this place. It was giving me goose bumps. I had no clock but I judged it to be past midnight. The sea boiled around me as I launched. I crossed a bay and heard something that made my blood run cold. There were sucking noises as waves arose out of nowhere and lifted and crashed. Never before had I experienced such a grim sound. My blood ran cold. I paddled with all my strength through boiling cauldrons of water as I struggled with whirl pools, the winds roaring around me. In my minds eye I imagined what it would be like sitting by the fire reading about this epic, wishing very much I was in that armchair. It crossed my mind I might die. If swamped, I thought in all probability I would be able to swim to shore, once the kayak sank. I imagined knocking on one of the doors of the houses, a sorry sodden mess, spending years of my life paying back the lost equipment. Somehow, carrying on like this, and muttering implications to heavenly hosts, I made it to Long Harbour.  I would not go down it, I decided. Too long. I was tired. It was late. I would save time and go across the mouth of the harbour in search of a beach on the far side. All of the ferries were berthed by now.  A third of the way across I noticed lights on a boat far off in the distance. As I stared these lights began to loom. It was a ship. Oh oh. Could this really be a BC Ferry? All of the ferries were not berthed. Oh no. I could hear the thump of engines. It was coming rapidly. It was bearing down on me faster than I could paddle.